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- Path: decwrl!recipes
- From: aviva@excelan (Aviva Garrett)
- Newsgroups: mod.recipes
- Subject: RECIPE: Face and body soap
- Message-ID: <6386@decwrl.DEC.COM>
- Date: 14 Nov 86 02:07:12 GMT
- Sender: recipes@decwrl.DEC.COM
- Organization: Excelan, Inc., San Jose, California
- Lines: 202
- Approved: reid@decwrl.UUCP
-
-
- Copyright (C) 1986 USENET Community Trust
- Permission to copy without fee all or part of this material is granted
- provided that the copies are not made or distributed for direct commercial
- advantage, the USENET copyright notice and the title of the newsgroup and
- its date appear, and notice is given that copying is by permission of
- the USENET Community Trust or the original contributor.
-
- .RH MOD.RECIPES-SOURCE SOAP O "7 Aug 86" 1986
- .RZ "SOAP" "A nice body and face soap"
- This is a luxurious and gentle handmade soap. It's a lot of work to make, but
- it's also a lot of fun. It is a good use for huge quantities of fat left
- over from cooking something.
- .PP
- One of the main ingredients in soap is lye (sodium hydroxide, NaOH).
- Lye is \fIextremely\fR caustic even at room temperature, and in this
- recipe it is heated.
- Because of this, you need to exercise extreme care when you make soap.
- You should always wear shoes (not sandals), long pants, a
- long-sleeved top, and gloves (I use rubber gloves).
- Also, \fIbe sure to wear eye protection.\fR
- If you get lye on your skin, you can quickly run to the sink and
- wash it off with LOTS of cold water; if you get lye in your
- eyes, rinsing it off may involve going to the emergency room.
- You should make certain that children and pets are
- somewhere else and will not interrupt you.
- There is no room for mistakes when dealing with lye.
- .IH "6 pounds of soap" "3.5 kg of soap"
- .IG "9 pounds" "suet" "4 kg"
- (this is also called tallow or beef fat)
- .IG "1 container" "lye"
- (see note)
- .IG "3 cups" "water" "750 ml"
- .IG "2 cups" "lemon juice" "500 ml"
- .IG "\(14 oz" "volatile fragrance oil" "7.5 ml"
- (optional; see note)
- .SH TOOLS
- You will need a large pot (metal or ceramic), at least
- .AB "2 gallons" "8 l" ","
- with a lid. This is for rendering the fat.
- .PP
- One long wooden spoon (at least
- .AB "10 inches)." "25 cm)."
- This should be a spoon that you can sacrifice, because the lye
- will eat away the wood.
- .PP
- You will need a large ceramic or glass bowl.
- This must be capable of holding all the water, lemon juice, and
- fat with some room to spare.
- I use a ceramic tub that is about 6 inches high and 24 inches in
- diameter. \FIdo not use metal\fR, as it will corrode. Even stainless steel
- will corrode.
- .PP
- Finally, you will need some glass, ceramic, and/or wooden molds to pour the
- soap into. I use glass baking dishes; two
- .AB "8\(12\(mu14-inch" "22\(mu35-cm"
- glass pans will make bars of soap that are about
- .AB "1 to 1\(12 inches" "2 to 3 cm"
- thick Again, DO NOT USE METAL CONTAINERS, as they will corrode.
- .PH
- .SK 1
- Render the fat.
- To do this, cut the fat into hand-sized pieces
- and place in a large pot and cover it.
- Heat on a medium heat until all the fat is melted.
- You should stir it occasionally.
- You should probably plan to turn the fan on high or open your
- kitchen windows while you are doing this.
- (Note that if you are starting with a pure fat, such as coconut
- oil or olive oil, you don't need to do this.
- Skip to Step 4.)
- .SK 2
- Cool the fat so that it is below the boiling point of water.
- Add an equal volume of water to the fat, and bring the mixture
- to a boil.
- Cover and let cool over night.
- .SK 3
- Take the fat out of the pot.
- I find the easiest way to do this is to slice the fat in half
- with a knife and then cut wedges.
- You can push the first wedge down into the water and then lift
- its neighboring wedge out.
- Scrape all the non-fat gunk off the bottom of the fat (the side
- of the fat that was at the fat-water interface).
- .SK 4
- Measure out
- .AB "six pounds" "2.75 kg"
- of rendered fat (be accurate with this measurement).
- Cut the fat into small pieces (about the size of a tennis ball,
- but squarish, not round) and place in a bowl.
- .SK 5
- Set up your soap-making work area.
- It should be outside, in a very well ventilated area.
- It's supposed to help to do it on a warmer day rather than a
- cooler day, but I've never noticed the difference.
- Also, clear your stove top and open the window in the kitchen
- before you start making the soap.
- .sp
- On a table, put your ceramic tub, the bowl of fat, the opened
- container of lye,
- a container with the water, and a container with the lemon juice.
- If you will be adding scent, keep its container nearby.
- Also place your soap mold containers nearby.
- .sp
- Put on all your safety gear.
- .SK 6
- Make the soap:
- Pour the water into the ceramic tub.
- Very carefully pour the lye into the tub.
- This is an exothermic reaction: it gives off heat, which is
- used to melt the fat.
- It also gives off odors which you don't want to breathe, so keep
- your head back. Stir the lye to dissolve it in the water.
- Then start adding the fat to the water/lye mixture, stirring
- with the long wooden spoon.
- Add the fat a bit at a time and stir until it's all melted.
- Then stir in the lemon juice, scent (if you are using it), and
- pour into molds.
- When the soap is firmer but not yet hard, cut into bars with a knife.
- It should be hard in an hour or so; you can test it with your finger.
- .sp
- .SK 7
- Wrap in clean cotton rags and store in a cool, airy
- place for 3-6 months.
- .SK 8
- When you clean up the pan that you made the soap it, be somewhat careful
- as there is probably still some unreacted lye in the pan. The only time
- I've had a problem with this is when I've tried to scrape the dry soap
- that lines the pan off with my fingernail and then a few minutes later
- I notice that the skin under my fingernail is burning. The easiest solution
- is just to wear gloves when you're cleaning the pan. It probably also helps
- to wash with extremely hot water so that the remaining soap (and fat if there
- is any) melts and dissolves in the water.
- .NX
- In the U.S., Red Devil lye comes in 12-oz containers. In Europe it generally
- comes in 350-g containers, which is about 3% more. You don't want to
- measure lye\(emyou want to use the whole container. If your container is not
- this size, then scale the recipe up or down accordingly. Leftover lye is a
- serious disposal problem.
- .PP
- Where to buy
- .AB "9 pounds" "4 kg"
- of fat? If you're using an animal fat (beef or pork), you can buy it
- from your butcher.
- What I find I have to do is reserve it, because they normally
- don't keep the fat after they've cut up their cow.
- Sometimes they will charge you for the fat (I've paid anywhere
- from 10 to 45 cents a pound); sometimes they won't.
- I've only ever made soap with beef fat; this makes a hard, mild, slow-lathering
- soap. The recipe will work equally well with other animal fats to produce a
- similar result. Coconut oil yields a softer, quick-lathering soap.
- Olive oil and other vegetable cooking oils yield a very soft soap that never
- completely hardens. Unfortunately, these oils are sensitive to air and light,
- and soap made from cooking oils will spoil in a few weeks unless it is
- refrigerated.
- .PP
- Volatile fragrance oils, also called essential oils, are highly concentrated
- scent ingredients. You can usually buy them at health-food stores, and you
- can sometimes find exotic fragrances at specialty food-and-spice shops.
- The amount that you should use depends on how fragrant you want the soap to
- be. A few drops of musk oil is enough to scent an entire batch of soap;
- less-potent fragrances such as a fruit oil might require
- .AB "a teaspoon or two" "5\-10 ml" .
- Soap scented with herbs is also popular; herbs like lemon thyme or verbena or
- lavender work well. To scent with herbs, make an herbal oil by packing a
- .AB "\(12-cup" "100-ml"
- container with herbs and then filling it with a pleasant-smelling
- vegetable oil such as almond oil. Let this mixture sit for a few weeks,
- stirring it every day, then heat in a double boiler for 10 minutes, then cool
- and strain the oil.
- .PP
- The soap works just fine with no fragrance at all, and many people prefer it
- that way. I certainly do.
- .PP
- You may run into problems at the stage ``Add the fat and stir
- until it's all melted.'' I almost always do.
- What happens is that the water/lye mixture runs out of heat
- before all the fat melts.
- What you have to do is add heat somehow.
- The way I do this is to grab the tub (which now contains all the
- fat), go into the kitchen, put it on top of a burner, and turn
- the burner (and the fan) on high.
- (Make sure the windows are all open too.)
- When all the fat is melted, I go back outside and continue,
- adding the lemon juice.
- .PP
- The lemon juice lowers the pH.
- The finished soap will have a pH of about 9; you can lower this by adding
- more lemon juice.
- .SH RATING
- .I Difficulty:
- challenging.
- .I Time:
- Day 1: 30 minutes preparation; 1\-2 hours cooking.
- Day 2: usually about 1 hour.
- .I Precision:
- Be precise. Also be careful.
- .WR
- Aviva Garrett
- Santa Cruz, CA
- Excelan, Inc., San Jose
- ucbvax!mtxinu!excelan!aviva
-